What kind of telescope should I buy?
Advice and a simple guide for those buying their first telescope.
My advice for Buying a Telescope has matured over the years but the core has remained the same. There is a lot of information on this page but if you read through it all carefully you will be able to make a more informed choice and end up being happier with your telescope.
What telescope should I buy? I get asked this question as soon as people find out that I'm into astronomy and telescopes. It is fun for me to help folks to answer this. Often I find that what kind of telescope people think they want and what they really want are two very different things. So, to start, I ask people two questions that need to be looked at together...
Many times after asking these questions I find out that what someone really wants is a fancy living room decoration and not so much a good star gazing instrument. How can you tell? Well if someone says they want to spend less than $250, I will usually come back with two answers 1) Get a good pair of binoculars. 2) Get a Dobsonian. What tips me off is that their nose sort of scrunches up at these suggestions and they go out and buy a cheap Newtonian or Refractor with the cool looking (but cheap) mount and flimsy tripod. It looks good in the living room window but is so frustrating to use that it stays there. Instead of taking some time and looking seriously, they run off to the local mall or XYZ-mart and buy the $149 650x special. So if you are looking into buying a telescope here is some advice for you...
However, for those that have at least a mild interest in astronomy, who actually want to look up and "see the stars" and are not looking for a fancy living room decoration here are some basic rules of thumb...
If you do not have much money (say not more than $250) you may be happiest with a good pair of binoculars. Binoculars, even inexpensive ones, will amaze you with how much you can see of the night sky. I viewed the sky far more often with my cheap ($98) 10x50 binoculars than my 10" telescope.
If a telescope has "650x" (or any other reference to power) prominently displayed on the side of the box, walk away - No RUN AWAY. Even the best telescopes are limited to about 50x-75x per inch (25.4mm) of aperture. For an inexpensive 60mm refractor this equals 120x. So "650x" is just a marketing ploy to get you buy their inexpensive (junk) scope. Although this practice is not as common as it once was, still... Do not buy a telescope based on its power! Do not buy a telescope based on its power!! Do not buy a telescope based on its power!!!
The diameter of the lens or mirror is generally the most important attribute (but not the only one) to consider in a telescope. Generally one will be happiest if they buy as much aperture as can be had in their price range. Large aperture refractors (lens based) can be very expensive. That means that most of us will be looking at a mirror based telescope.
One can have the best optics in the world, but if the mount is wobbly, shaky, hard to use, or hard to track the sky with, you will NOT be happy. A good combination of aperture and solid, easy to use mount is a Dobsonian. Those department store telescopes almost always have poor mounts.
Often, if you do not need to have the latest gee-wiz scope (and sometimes if you do), you can save a lot of money by buying a used telescope (This is what I did). Older model telescopes are often available on the used market for less than half of the cost of a new telescope. Serious used telescopes are almost always in excellent condition as the owners take very good care of them. See the links at the end of the page for online used telescope classified ads that I have used in the past.
The views through your telescope simply will NOT match what you see in astrophotos in magazines or even on the box of your scope. Period! First, you will not see nebulae in color, planets will look tinier than you expect and will lack most of the color and contrast you see in books and magazines. Most people that look through a telescope for the first time are somewhat disappointed about what they see, or what they don't see. Don't get me wrong, you will never forget the first time you see Saturn or the Moon in a telescope and the "Wow!" that escapes your lips will amaze you also, but the "faint fuzzy" stuff often disappoints first time viewers.
A telescope can be a great thing, or it can discourage you from enjoying a rewarding hobby. The choice is yours. I cannot emphasize enough... DO NOT BUY A CHEAP TELESCOPE!!! If you can get a great deal on a good scope, great, but you WILL waste your money if you get that $149 650x special that may be tempting you. Never even consider a telescope that advertises it power on the box (650x, 725x, 625x60, etc). Why? Well put simply, I have never seen a good telescope that advertises it power on the box.
Telescope FAQ |
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A | So, should I buy that cheap scope? | No! The best advice I can give is that you get what you pay for. “Cheap” is a relative term, $149 may seem expensive to you, but worthwhile telescopes cost more. |
B | Should I get a refractor or a reflector? | It depends. If you follow the advice to get as much aperture as possible for the money you have to spend, a reflector (mirror based) is the right choice for 75% of people looking to buy their first telescope. The reasons to get a refractor (lens based) are a bit more complicated. Inexpensive refractors have problems with false color, but they are often more compact and therefore better for traveling. Also, refractors tend to give more pleasing views when used in the daylight. Most reflectors tend to be very large by comparison, but will have better light gathering capability. |
C | Should I get a computerized “GOTO” telescope? | There are arguments for and against computerized “GOTO” scopes. First, those computers cost money that could be used toward sturdier mounts or better optics. Second, some feel that if you use a “goto” scope you will never learn the sky because you will never have to hunt down any objects. The other side goes like this, First, The cost of the scopes is coming down all of the time, and “GOTO” scopes cost no more than the earlier “non-goto” version did (the ETX90-EC vs. the ETX90-RA is a good example of this). Second, many people would give up trying to find a deep sky object before they ever found it without “goto”. For some it’s the hunt, for others, it’s the observing, the choice is yours… |
D | Why is aperture so important? | Two reasons, light gathering and resolution. A 10 inch (25cm) telescope can gather 4 times the light of a 5 inch (12.5cm) telescope. Seeing conditions permitting, a 10 inch telescope has twice the resolution of a 5 inch telescope. Example, Under perfect skies, the galaxy M51 looks like two smudges in a 3.5 inch telescope. In a 6 inch telescope, the spiral structure of M51 is just visible. In a 10 inch telescope the spiral structure is clearly evident. In a 25 inch telescope, fine detail of the spiral arms is clearly visible, as is the molecular cloud that surrounds the galaxy! |
Answer: A telescope that you will continue to use and enjoy, NOT a device that will frustrate you to the point of never wanting to use it again. Really though, the answer depends on what your goals are and the money that you have to spend. Good telescopes are expensive regardless of the type. Now, I am going to assume that you know the difference between a refractor and a reflector and their variants. If not, click here and a new window will open that shows the difference. One word of caution, A good telescope will likely cost more than you want to spend.
The first thing you must do is answer this question: WHAT DO I WANT
TO DO WITH MY TELESCOPE?
This is simple, get a good pair of
binoculars and a star chart. You will be amazed at just how much
there is to see through a good pair of binoculars. Generally a 7x50
or 10x50 is a good start, a 8 x 56 or a 9x63 is the next step up for
a pair of "astro" binoculars. Notice, that if you take the second
number (the size of the main lens in millimeters) and divide it by
the first number (the power) you will get what is known as the "exit
pupil" in millimeters ( 56mm / 8=7mm ). For an "astro" binocular an
exit pupil value of around 7mm is ideal, this is the size of an
average night adapted pupil. (Exit Pupil is NOT the diameter of the
eyepiece lens' of a pair of binoculars). If you are a bit older than
an exit pupil of 5mm may be better. In any case, a magnification
(power) value over 10x makes hand holding very hard as the natural
shaking that hand holding introduces is magnified as well.
Magnification over 10x will require a tripod mount or an expensive
image stabilizer system.
This is fun. First, Be honest with
yourself! If what you really want fits in this category, the people
that you likely wish to impress will not know the difference between
a good telescope and a 650x XYZ mart special, so you can save a a
lot of money :-). I would get a 70mm refractor with the cool looking
German Equatorial Mount (GEM). That would make it a little bigger
than your neighbors 60mm scope and it would have a cooler mount to
boot. Also a refractor looks like a stereotypical telescope, unlike
a Newtonian which will just confuse them ("which end do you look
through"). If you need a little telescope for your office or a shelf
many places sell a little tiny brass refractor that would just fit
the bill. If you intend to spy on your neighbors (I do not
recommended this) an "alt-az" mount would work better than a GEM,
but you will want a 45° diagonal. Just remember, if you get a
telescope in this catagory, it will likely be useless when It comes
to viewing anything astronomical with it.
See "I don't know" above. For you binoculars are still the best way
to start. But you really think that a telescope is for you, I would
have to recommend a Dobsonian. You are the best person to determine
what size to get but a nice average size would be a 6" to 8".
Dobsonian refers to a Newtonian in a simple "alt-az" cradle type
mount. This is best way to maximize your aperture per money spent. A
"dob" is easy to use and setup.
Here is where the number of choices explode! Money becomes more of a
limiting factor than the choices available. The simple fact of the
matter is that those with lower budgets will need to look at
binoculars or lower end Dobsonians. Those with more money will need
to consider the size and portability of the telescope of their
dreams. Big telescopes are, well, BIG! They can be so big that they
will not fit inside the average car. The choices start with larger
"dobs" in the 10" and larger range. Many very serious stargazers use
large (12.5" to >20") Dobsonians such as those from Obsession and
James Grigar's Astro Sky. (Note: A very close friend of mine ordered
a 14" dob from Astro Sky and could not be happier! It took some time
to get but it truly is a fine scope - I own a custom pier from
James and have used my friend's Astro Sky dob and can say from
experience that it is a piece of art. Please consider this as an
endorsment from a couple happy customers). We then move over
into scopes like Schmidt-Cassegrain Telescopes (SCT) and APO
refractors. Finally we add computerized "Go-To" capabilities to
these bigger APO's and SCT's (and even the "Dobs"). These larger
and/or more complex telescopes can take a lot of room and a lot of
setup time. If you are like me, you work a normal shift. If the sun
sets at 9PM that means that it doesn't get dark until 10 PM or
later. If you want to go to bed at midnight and the scope takes an
hour to disassemble and put away... Hmmm... You do the math. There
is something to be said for getting a simple telescope.
First take a look at the Astrophotography for
Beginners page. For the sake of this point I will assume that we are
talking about long exposure astrophotography. Here the most
important thing is not necessarily the telescope but rather the
mount. A very high quality mount is a must. Often, quality German
Equatorial Mounts (GEM’s) are preferred by astrophotographers.
Mounts such as those made by Losmandy, Mathis Instruments, and
Astro-Physics are employed by many astrophotographers. These GEM's
also have the advantage of being able to accommodate many different
types of telescopes. The very capable Meade and Celestron fork
mounts work well but you must also use the scope that came with the
mount (although you can piggyback a smaller scope on it). Another
option may be the Meade LXD75 series of telescopes. If you have even
more money you might look at the Meade LX200-ACF or the new
Celestron EdgeHD Aplanatic Schmidt scopes.
Good planetary telescopes have a couple things in
common. Contrast and usually a long focal length. Many people feel
that the best planetary telescopes are APO refractors. The problem
is that any APO refractor is going to be expensive. Lower cost
options can include Maksutov-Cassegrains and “long” achromatic
refractors. Schmidt-Cassegrain Telescopes (SCT) can also offer
pleasing views of the planets but with less of that highly touted
contrast. It is still true that a larger aperture has a higher
resolution than a smaller aperture, but you MUST have very steady
air to take advantage of it. So, for viewing planets, a larger
aperture is not as beneficial as it is for viewing deep sky objects.
A telescope can be a great thing, or it can discourage you from enjoying a rewarding hobby. The choice is yours. I cannot emphasize enough... DO NOT BUY A CHEAP TELESCOPE!!! If you can get a great deal on a good scope, great, but you WILL waste your money if you get that $149 650x special that may be tempting you. Never even consider a telescope that advertises it power on the box (650x, 725x, 625x60, etc). Why? Well put simply, I have never seen a good telescope that advertises it power on the box.
Of course there are many many advice sites for beginners, some of which are in the links below, However, I strongly recommend viewing the Interview with Timothy Ferris on PBS's Seeing in the Dark website. The four interviews take a little less than an hour to view. You will also enjoy watching the Seeing in the Dark film.
Enerdyne - Suttons Bay, Michigan , USA
So You Wanna Buy a Telescope... Advice for Beginners
The Current Moon Phase